I once had a jeep at the foot of Mount Kanchenjunga in Jalpaiguri, West Bengal. I would wake up early during the monsoon season, hoping to catch a shimmering, evanescent glimpse of the snowcapped mountain, which was ordinarily shrouded in cloud cover. On good days, I could detect a fleeting breath of cool air before daybreak signaled the start of another sultry day. I had a Muslim driver and a Hindu paramedic, and we were part of a vast army of foot soldiers tasked with confronting a goddess and eventually eradicating a disease.
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